Maharashtra: Ashtavinayak Yatra Or Pilgrimage: Day 3
We got a little late because we had to check out of
our hotel this third day being our last of the tour. Our bus was underway around
7am. This morning we were served breakfast at the hotel.
Vighneshwar
Temple: Our seventh temple of the Ashtavinayaka tour was the Vighneshwar Temple
at Ozhar. It is situated on the banks of Kukadi River, 95 km away
from Pune city, just off the Pune-Nashik Highway, in the Junnar taluka of Pune district.
The temple is enclosed on all sides by high stone walls, and its pinnacle is
made of gold. The Ganesha form worshipped here is called Vighneshwar, ‘Lord of
obstacles") or Vighnahar (spelt also as Vignahara, "Remover of
obstacles") and is associated with the legend of Ganesha defeating
Vignasura, the demon of obstacles.
The
temple is surrounded by a walled compound with a large gateway flanked by two
large stone Dvarapala (gatekeepers)
sculptures and a row of four musicians in bas relief on the lintel. One can
view the Lenyadri shrine and Shivneri Fort standing on the wall. Two large
stone Deepamalas (lamp towers) stand
near the gateway in front of a fine corridor of seven cusped arches. There are owaris (small room for meditation) on
both sides of the gateway. The courtyard is tiled. The central temple has three
entrances with sculptured side posts and lintels; the east one being the
central one. The central one has a lintel with a Ganesha in relief surrounded
with monkeys and parrots on trees. The temple has two halls, with first one (20
feet high) having the entrances to the north and south too and has the image of
Dhundiraj Ganesha. The next one (10 feet high) has a white marble mushika (the mouse, which is the vehicle
of Ganesha) seating in attendance. The temple walls are filled with murals and colorful
sculptures. The shikhara - over the
sanctum - is covered with gold foil. It also has two wide stone Prakarams (outer path outside a Hindu
sanctum). Ozhar is prescribed as the seventh temple to be visited in the
Ashtavinayaka circuit, though pilgrims often visit Ozar fifth, as it is a more
convenient route. However, we have visited this as our seventh destination
only.
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Riverside, Ozhar |
Girijatmaj
Temple: Our eight and last temple of the tour was the spectacular
mountain cave temple, Girijatmaj, at Lenyadri ('Lena' in Marathi meaning
"cave" and 'adri' in Sanskrit meaning "mountain" or
"stone") very near to Ozhar. The temple is situated within a series
of 30 rock-cut Buddhist caves on a mountain, which are also called Ganesha
Caves—the seventh cave housing the Ganesha temple. The temple hall with
the altar has around 18 rock-cut cells used as meditation rooms. Situated 97 km
from Pune, you have to climb 307 steps to reach the temple. The idol here
is not a separate idol but has been carved on a stone wall of the cave, from
which only one eye of the idol can be seen. The mountain temple campus are full
of monkeys who mix well with the devotees and accept the food offered.
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Would Look in Spring |
‘Girijatmaj’
literally means Ganesha the son, atmaj
meaning son and Girija another name
of Goddess Parvati or Goddess Durga. Legends have it that desiring to have a son;
Parvati underwent austerities meditating on Ganesha, for twelve years at
Lenyadri. Pleased by her penance, Ganesha blessed her with the boon that he
will be born as her son. Accordingly, on the fourth lunar day of the bright
fortnight of the Hindu month Bhadrapada (Ganesh chaturthi day), Parvati
worshipped a clay image of Ganesha, which came alive. Thus, Ganesha was born to
Parvati at Lenyadri. Later, he was named Gunesha by Lord Shiva. Shiva gave him
a boon that whosoever remembers him before starting a job, will successfully
complete that task. For 15 years Gunesha grew up at Lenyadri. Sindhu, who knew
that his death would be at the hands of Gunesha, sent demons like Krur,
Balasur, Vyomasur, Kshemma, Kushal, and many more, to kill Gunesha, but all of
them were instead killed by him. At the age of six, the architect-god
Vishwakarma worshipped Gunesha and endowed him with the weapons of Pasha (noose), Parashu (axe), Ankusha
(hook) and Padma (Lotus). Once,
little Gunesha knocked an egg from a mango tree, from which emerged a peacock.
Gunesha mounted the peacock and assumed the name Mayureshwara. Mayureshwara
later killed Sindhu and his army-generals at Morgaon, the most important
Ashtavinayaka temple.
Twenty-six
of the caves are individually numbered. The caves face to the south and are
numbered serially from east to west. Caves 6 and 14 are chaitya-grihas (chapels), while the rest are viharas (dwellings for monks). The latter are in the form of
dwellings and cells. There are also several rock-cut water cisterns; two of
them have inscriptions. The layout of the caves, in general, is similar in
pattern and shape. They mostly have one or two sides with two long benches for
occupants' use. The caves date from between the 1st and 3rd century AD; the
Ganesha shrine situated in Cave 7 is dated to the 1st century AD, though the
date of conversion to a Hindu shrine is unknown. All of the caves arise from
Hinayana Buddhism.
Our
fellow passengers have shown a perfect sense of camaraderie and support in
climbing nearly 350 stone steps to the temple

We were
given lunch at a nearby hotel. For the first time during this hectic tour
people were seen taking their time and relaxing a lot. The bus dropped us back
in Mumbai around 8 pm.
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