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From Shillong Peak |
Shillong---a city of the North Eastern India we have
grown up with. Because, this beautiful hill station had been the capital of
Assam till January, 1972 when Meghalaya was carved out of Assam as a separate
state. And because the music legend of Assam, Bhupen Hazarika composed
beautiful songs on Shillong and Meghalaya during the 50s, 60s and 70s. These
songs have been our great favorites from our childhood days. So it hardly
mattered that I visited the city only twice—once in my childhood days with
memories getting blurred and one very brief visit in the 90s. When Shillong
suddenly became my workplace I went there with all familiarity and with an
unspoken bond of love.
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Ward's Lake |
I must mention the three evergreen Assamese numbers
by Bhupen Hazarika on Shillong that always haunted me. ‘Shillongore Godhuli’ (Evening in Shillong), ‘Shillongore Monalisa Lyngdoh’ (‘Hello, Monalisa Lyngdoh from Shillong’ with Jayanta
Hazarika) and his Assamese-Khasi movie ‘Pratidhawani’
(1964) duet ‘Lieng Makau’ with none
other than Talat Mahmood. Lieng Makau
is the imaginary name of a Khasi girl from the hills and the song describes her
beauty in conformity with incredible nature giving details of culture and ethos
of Meghalaya.
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Umiam Lake |
Shillong is an enchanting city with nature endowing
her full attention and with narrow hilly roads winding through the peaks and plateaus
of the city. With concrete buildings constantly on the rise at some lanes two
vehicles could hardly cross and there have been traffic jams nowadays for
similar reasons. Shilling has a altitude of nearly 5000 feet above sea level. Shillong Peak encompassing the Laitkor Peak has a height of about 6400
feet offering breathtaking views of the city and having sub-zero temperatures
during December-January while in
the city average temperatures range from 25
maximum (rarely up to 28) to 3 minimum throughout the year. Here you will never
see ceiling fans or air-conditioners anywhere, but will find only room heaters
in all office and residences. Khasi community forms the majority in the city with
sizeable sections of Garo, Manipuri, Nepali, Mizo, Bengali and Assamese people
apart from other Indians who mostly come on transfers. In Meghalaya 70 percent
of the population are Christians which reflects in Shillong too.
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Elephant Falls |
Thanks to the
cool climate you will find markets for woolens, wine outlets and fish-meat
(mainly pork) shops almost everywhere in the city. In most of the activities
you will find women in the forefront thanks to the matriarchal society of Meghalaya.
Meghalaya has 11 districts including 5 in the disturbed Garo Hill region and
the population is more than 30 million.
The cosmopolitan nature of the city is reflected in
the workforce of most of the offices, organizations and corporations. Shillong Doordarshan,
being a Government of India organization, has a workforce covering almost all
parts of India including the major chunk from North East and East.
This writer
has the privilege of working now with a multi-ethnic, multi-linguistic and
multi-religious team. And there is absolute harmony and bond as if all are
bound by soothing Mother Nature. Inside, the inner chords of human hearts speak
eloquently to you and outside, the descending clouds often have a dialogue with
you. Sunlight is something in considerable scarcity here, but the warmth of
human hearts make up for that.
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Doordarshan Shillong, Lailtkor Peak |
English is the official language here, however of
late efforts are underway for the inclusion of Khasi language in the 8th
Schedule of the Indian Constitution. As I communicate in mostly English or in
Hindi or in Assamese or in Bengali every member of the team endearingly asks
about how I am doing or how I am finding the city. I say to them, ‘Shillong is
breathlessly beautiful. It is of course very cold, but you people are very
warm.’ Khublei (meaning Namaskar or thanks) to all of you! Khublei Shibun…thanks very much indeed!